A TIGER PARADISE REBORN: SEARCHING FOR INDIA’S BIG CATS IN PANNA TIGER RESERVE
Resurgence of India’s Big Cats in Panna
If you're searching for an authentic tiger safari in India—with thrilling big cat encounters, fewer tourists, and stunning post-monsoon scenery—Panna Tiger Reserve might be your perfect destination.
Once written off as a lost cause for tigers, Panna has made a roaring comeback. This blog takes you behind the scenes of my to Panna —from patient tracking to an unforgettable riverside tiger sighting. It’s a tribute to the power and resilience of India’s big cats, and the people who work tirelessly to protect them.
An Unexpected Encounter: Tigress P151 on the River Ken
On our final afternoon in Panna Tiger Reserve, we had spent hours waiting near the known territory of Tigress P141, a majestic mother of four tiny cubs. Time was slipping away—only 90 minutes until the park gates would close.
Then came the decision to roll the dice.
We left our position and headed for the boat mooring on the River Ken, hoping for one last chance to spot a tiger along the water’s edge. Luck was on our side.
Tigress P151, elegant and powerful, stepped out of the forest and made her way down to the riverbank.
It was one of those moments every wildlife photographer dreams of—a perfect mix of light, setting, and raw natural grace. I hope this image reflects not only the splendor of this beautiful habitat in its post monsoon glow but also celebrates the power & beauty of a tigress in her prime after having a third litter of cubs.
Rewind 17 Years: Panna’s Fall from Grace
My journey with India’s tiger reserves began over 17 years ago, with visits to both Bandhavgarh and Panna. While Bandhavgarh had occasional sightings, Panna was heartbreakingly quiet. Despite my travel company describing it as a prime tiger habitat, I left without seeing a single big cat.
Back then, the guides told me only two tigers remained in the entire reserve. It was a far cry from Panna's legacy as a biodiversity hotspot in Madhya Pradesh, known for its sloth bears, leopards, antelope, and Bengal tigers.th places.
Due to that experience, I stayed away from revisiting Panna whenever I was looking to do a tiger safari in India. However, through the cajoling of my friend & guide Mithun Hunugund he assured me that the park had gone through a remarkable transformation & it was now a great time to visit.
A Conservation Crisis Sparks a Revolution
In 2009, the unthinkable happened: Panna officially lost all of its tigers due to unchecked poaching, habitat destruction, and human-wildlife conflict.
Rather than giving up, conservationists launched the Panna Tiger Reintroduction Project—a bold, science-led mission to bring tigers back from extinction in this landscape.
Key Steps Taken:
Translocating tigers from other reserves
Village relocations from core forest zones
Habitat restoration and water management
Radio-collaring tigers for monitoring
Deploying advanced anti-poaching teams
Thanks to these efforts, the population has now soared to over 60 tigers, including multiple breeding tigresses like P141 and P151. Panna is no longer a cautionary tale—it’s a global case study in successful tiger conservation.
Face of a Tiger: P663 Father of P141’s young cubs
Besides the tiger numbers themselves, which is a cause for celebration, I was also overwhelmed at times with the beauty of this Tiger reserve especially around sunrise & sunset. Searching for tigers in the early morning mist, with the most wonderful long grasses hugging the roadside, or the meadows filled with flowers & cheetal was magical.
Then afternoons looking at the glowing sunset by the river Ken hoping & praying for a Tiger to fill the frame is something I won’t forget & will be a reason I will return because there is so much photographic potential with the incredible habitat & wildlife in Panna.
And to top it all. Besides some wonderful Tiger sightings, a morning with this leopard which made my heartbeat faster.
A giant Leopard leap
Besides growing Tiger numbers, there are as many as 256 leopards in Panna Tiger Reserve of Madhya Pradesh. These numbers in Panna Tiger Reserve and Kuno National Park reflect some of the highest leopard densities recorded in India.
Despite these impressive numbers a leopard sighting can never be taken for granted. When we got to the scene this female leopard was largely hidden from view. We had to wait patiently as she gradually moved into view & closer to the sambar kill hanging over a branch in the tree. When she made a leap to another branch, I was able to get this image. I was thankful for my bean bag helping me to steady my camera in this situation!
Female leopard mid leap towards a nearby branch in order to get closer to her Sambar deer kill
A female leopard in tree is focused on nearby potential prey
Why Panna Is a Hidden Gem for Indian Photo Safaris
If you're planning an Indian photo safari, here’s why Panna should be on your radar:
📷 Photo Safari Highlights:
Boat safaris along the River Ken for dramatic, eye-level wildlife shots
Stunning post-monsoon forests glowing green and gold
Better chances of exclusive sightings with fewer crowds than Bandhavgarh or Ranthambhore
High density of breeding tigresses and cubs
Other wildlife: sloth bears, leopards, chinkara, vultures, crocodiles
Travel Tips for Visiting Panna Tiger Reserve
Best Time to Visit: October to April (post-monsoon glow in Oct–Nov is magical for photographers)
Where to Stay: I stayed at The Naarharbagh Rajgarh Resort . I can’t recommend this resort enough. Wonderful hospitality from the staff & my guide Uttam was top class.
It’s also 15 min drive to the park gates which means you can get into position nice & early for when the gates open. Alternatively choose eco-lodges or forest resorts near Madla Gate or Hinauta Gate
Book Early: Safari slots are limited; book well in advance, especially for winter
Guides Matter: Go with knowledgeable photographers & naturalists such as Mithun Hunugund for the best tracking experiences
Final Thoughts: A Tiger Paradise, Reimagined
Panna has emerged from near extinction to become one of the most promising tiger reserves in India. As a wildlife photographer, this journey reminded me that every frame we capture is not just about beauty—but also about resilience, conservation, and second chances.
So if you're dreaming of photographing India’s big cats in a wild, soulful, and uncrowded setting, pack your gear and head to Panna Tiger Reserve.
It’s not just a place to visit. It’s a story worth telling—and a paradise worth protecting.
